New Member

[Gadfly92]

Good evening everyone. Having previously owned various makes and models of sub 12 FPE guns, I have now acquired a FAC Mk1 Rapid 7 in .22.  Getting used to the slightly irritating Buddy bottle filling procedure, but living with it for now.
Experimenting with different pellets and power adjustments to find best combination. Max power is 26.8FPE using Crossman Magnums 15.89.
Looking forward learning more about the Rapids from all the Knowledgeable contributors on the forum.

[Ca_Varminter]

Welcome to the Rapid Forum to You and your MKI.
If the filling of the Buddy bottle is too much of a hassle...
Check out Dr Bob' QF setup.. Very cool
or you can look at the RAW QF setup...
Here is link on my installations of both:
https://rapidforum.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=185.0

Anyway I hope you like Our Site..
We Have many great members and the Rapid Doctor..KevG
Looking Forward to reading your Posts!

Visit Us as Often as You Can!
Stuart

[Alun]

Hi Stuart.
Thank you and also, for allowing me to join the forum
Kind regards
Alun

[Squinty]

welcome..

forget the quick fill, it can alter the power curve, means cutting a hole in the stock and  the whole thing needs draining if an o-ring goes. Plus ou'll need to lug your dive cylinder out with you.
Buy a spare bottle, a packet of BS111 orings and some molykote grease ..the o-ring needs to be very lightly greased or it will leak..

Changing/filling the buddy bottle- usually takes between 1.25 and 1.5 turns to close the BB valve without blowing the o-ring.
put a piece of tape on the bottle directly under the barrel, using that as a reference ..undo the bottle one full turn and take it to 2 o'closck inline with the top edge of the stock..2-3 shots to purge the block.
If it doesn't quieten down or change tone 1/8 more..repeat until you have found the closing point.
Now with the tape reference..you can turn it to within a few degrees without lots of dry shots or blowing the o-ring.

[ColinH]

welcome..

forget the quick fill, it can alter the power curve, means cutting a hole in the stock and  the whole thing needs draining if an o-ring goes. Plus ou'll need to lug your dive cylinder out with you.
Buy a spare bottle, a packet of BS111 orings and some molykote grease ..the o-ring needs to be very lightly greased or it will leak..

Changing/filling the buddy bottle- usually takes between 1.25 and 1.5 turns to close the BB valve without blowing the o-ring.
put a piece of tape on the bottle directly under the barrel, using that as a reference ..undo the bottle one full turn and take it to 2 o'closck inline with the top edge of the stock..2-3 shots to purge the block.
If it doesn't quieten down or change tone 1/8 more..repeat until you have found the closing point.
Now with the tape reference..you can turn it to within a few degrees without lots of dry shots or blowing the o-ring.

Sorry Squinty but I dont understand your explanation of the correct way to remove the buddy bottle using the tape mark directly under the barrel?

Surly with the mark on the bottle at 12 o`clock and then one full ACW the mark will be back at 12 o`clock and again under the barrel - correct?
So then where does your 1.25 to 1.5 turns come from, and the 2 o`clock position?

Cant get my head round the logic here in Devon 😒

[Squinty]

welcome..

forget the quick fill, it can alter the power curve, means cutting a hole in the stock and  the whole thing needs draining if an o-ring goes. Plus ou'll need to lug your dive cylinder out with you.
Buy a spare bottle, a packet of BS111 orings and some molykote grease ..the o-ring needs to be very lightly greased or it will leak..

Changing/filling the buddy bottle- usually takes between 1.25 and 1.5 turns to close the BB valve without blowing the o-ring.
put a piece of tape on the bottle directly under the barrel, using that as a reference ..undo the bottle one full turn and take it to 2 o'closck inline with the top edge of the stock..2-3 shots to purge the block.
If it doesn't quieten down or change tone 1/8 more..repeat until you have found the closing point.
Now with the tape reference..you can turn it to within a few degrees without lots of dry shots or blowing the o-ring.

Sorry Squinty but I dont understand your explanation of the correct way to remove the buddy bottle using the tape mark directly under the barrel?

Surly with the mark on the bottle at 12 o`clock and then one full ACW the mark will be back at 12 o`clock and again under the barrel - correct?
So then where does your 1.25 to 1.5 turns come from, and the 2 o`clock position?

Cant get my head round the logic here in Devon 😒

1 full turn + 45 degrees will bring the tape in line with the r/h top edge of the forend 2'oclockish. ..1 & 1/8 turn--405 degrees
the point where the bottle valve is closed and you can purcge the block with be between that and 180 degrees of the second rotation.
Full turn plus  1/8 to 1/2

Once you have found the right spot, you can use the tape to line it up every time

[ColinH]

welcome..

forget the quick fill, it can alter the power curve, means cutting a hole in the stock and  the whole thing needs draining if an o-ring goes. Plus ou'll need to lug your dive cylinder out with you.
Buy a spare bottle, a packet of BS111 orings and some molykote grease ..the o-ring needs to be very lightly greased or it will leak..

Changing/filling the buddy bottle- usually takes between 1.25 and 1.5 turns to close the BB valve without blowing the o-ring.
put a piece of tape on the bottle directly under the barrel, using that as a reference ..undo the bottle one full turn and take it to 2 o'closck inline with the top edge of the stock..2-3 shots to purge the block.
If it doesn't quieten down or change tone 1/8 more..repeat until you have found the closing point.
Now with the tape reference..you can turn it to within a few degrees without lots of dry shots or blowing the o-ring.

Sorry Squinty but I dont understand your explanation of the correct way to remove the buddy bottle using the tape mark directly under the barrel?

Surly with the mark on the bottle at 12 o`clock and then one full ACW the mark will be back at 12 o`clock and again under the barrel - correct?
So then where does your 1.25 to 1.5 turns come from, and the 2 o`clock position?

Cant get my head round the logic here in Devon 😒

1 full turn + 45 degrees will bring the tape in line with the r/h top edge of the forend 2'oclockish. ..1 & 1/8 turn--405 degrees
the point where the bottle valve is closed and you can purcge the block with be between that and 180 degrees of the second rotation.
Full turn plus  1/8 to 1/2

Once you have found the right spot, you can use the tape to line it up every time

Ok thanks for that and understood, 1+1/8 to 1+1/2 turn it is.

So please now some good advice on how to refit a fully charged BB?
Cheers, C/

[nevadacowboy]

Welcome aboard buddy 

[Squinty]

welcome..

forget the quick fill, it can alter the power curve, means cutting a hole in the stock and  the whole thing needs draining if an o-ring goes. Plus ou'll need to lug your dive cylinder out with you.
Buy a spare bottle, a packet of BS111 orings and some molykote grease ..the o-ring needs to be very lightly greased or it will leak..

Changing/filling the buddy bottle- usually takes between 1.25 and 1.5 turns to close the BB valve without blowing the o-ring.
put a piece of tape on the bottle directly under the barrel, using that as a reference ..undo the bottle one full turn and take it to 2 o'closck inline with the top edge of the stock..2-3 shots to purge the block.
If it doesn't quieten down or change tone 1/8 more..repeat until you have found the closing point.
Now with the tape reference..you can turn it to within a few degrees without lots of dry shots or blowing the o-ring.

Sorry Squinty but I dont understand your explanation of the correct way to remove the buddy bottle using the tape mark directly under the barrel?

Surly with the mark on the bottle at 12 o`clock and then one full ACW the mark will be back at 12 o`clock and again under the barrel - correct?
So then where does your 1.25 to 1.5 turns come from, and the 2 o`clock position?

Cant get my head round the logic here in Devon 😒

1 full turn + 45 degrees will bring the tape in line with the r/h top edge of the forend 2'oclockish. ..1 & 1/8 turn--405 degrees
the point where the bottle valve is closed and you can purcge the block with be between that and 180 degrees of the second rotation.
Full turn plus  1/8 to 1/2

Once you have found the right spot, you can use the tape to line it up every time

Ok thanks for that and understood, 1+1/8 to 1+1/2 turn it is.

So please now some good advice on how to refit a fully charged BB?
Cheers, C/

lol, trust me been there a few times.
Make sure that the gun is unloaded, cocked, safety on. Fair chance that with the hammer resting on the exhaust valve it will be open and send air down the barrel

Screw the bottle in until you feel the contact point between bottle valve pip and the bottle holder pushpin.
Now with a fraction of a turn it should seal with a nice soft 'plip'
And tighten the bottle fully.

by rights..at the contact point the o-ring should be seated far enough into the bottle holder to stop any leaks, but if you are getting a rush of air-

a) a smear of molykote /silicone grease on the o-ring works wonders

b) replace the BS-111 o-ring- remembering to apply some grease
they flatten out, go hard, lose form if you've 'popped' them a couple of times..just a tiny whisp of rubber can casue a leak

c) more than the short twist than could be an issue with the valve pip.
there are a few different versions of valves, some repairable, some might need replacing- there is 3000 psi on a tiny bit of plastic.

d) or the bottle holder push pin may need adjusting..generally its the valve pip unless someone has adjusted the pin to suit a particular bottle.

[ColinH]

welcome..

forget the quick fill, it can alter the power curve, means cutting a hole in the stock and  the whole thing needs draining if an o-ring goes. Plus ou'll need to lug your dive cylinder out with you.
Buy a spare bottle, a packet of BS111 orings and some molykote grease ..the o-ring needs to be very lightly greased or it will leak..

Changing/filling the buddy bottle- usually takes between 1.25 and 1.5 turns to close the BB valve without blowing the o-ring.
put a piece of tape on the bottle directly under the barrel, using that as a reference ..undo the bottle one full turn and take it to 2 o'closck inline with the top edge of the stock..2-3 shots to purge the block.
If it doesn't quieten down or change tone 1/8 more..repeat until you have found the closing point.
Now with the tape reference..you can turn it to within a few degrees without lots of dry shots or blowing the o-ring.

Sorry Squinty but I dont understand your explanation of the correct way to remove the buddy bottle using the tape mark directly under the barrel?

Surly with the mark on the bottle at 12 o`clock and then one full ACW the mark will be back at 12 o`clock and again under the barrel - correct?
So then where does your 1.25 to 1.5 turns come from, and the 2 o`clock position?

Cant get my head round the logic here in Devon 😒

1 full turn + 45 degrees will bring the tape in line with the r/h top edge of the forend 2'oclockish. ..1 & 1/8 turn--405 degrees
the point where the bottle valve is closed and you can purcge the block with be between that and 180 degrees of the second rotation.
Full turn plus  1/8 to 1/2

Once you have found the right spot, you can use the tape to line it up every time

Ok thanks for that and understood, 1+1/8 to 1+1/2 turn it is.

So please now some good advice on how to refit a fully charged BB?
Cheers, C/

lol, trust me been there a few times.
Make sure that the gun is unloaded, cocked, safety on. Fair chance that with the hammer resting on the exhaust valve it will be open and send air down the barrel

Screw the bottle in until you feel the contact point between bottle valve pip and the bottle holder pushpin.
Now with a fraction of a turn it should seal with a nice soft 'plip'
And tighten the bottle fully.

by rights..at the contact point the o-ring should be seated far enough into the bottle holder to stop any leaks, but if you are getting a rush of air-

a) a smear of molykote /silicone grease on the o-ring works wonders

b) replace the BS-111 o-ring- remembering to apply some grease
they flatten out, go hard, lose form if you've 'popped' them a couple of times..just a tiny whisp of rubber can casue a leak

c) more than the short twist than could be an issue with the valve pip.
there are a few different versions of valves, some repairable, some might need replacing- there is 3000 psi on a tiny bit of plastic.

d) or the bottle holder push pin may need adjusting..generally its the valve pip unless someone has adjusted the pin to suit a particular bottle.

Thanks for the great advice and information appreciate it
C/

[Squinty]

Thanks for the great advice and information appreciate it
C/

you're welcome,
btw.. don't grease the thread, it can make them bind up.

[ColinH]

Thanks for the great advice and information appreciate it
C/

you're welcome,
btw.. don't grease the thread, it can make them bind up.

👍

[Keiron]

Welcome to the family mate