Seems a stuck delivery valve!

[Dr Fox]

A problem I had when fist I had the rifle it went away, but now back with a vengeance. On bottle fitting, hammer back and locked down, the gun immediately expels the bottle air through the delivery valve. I am stumped as to why this is open, and is there a quick fix? Popping the hammer once or twice does nothing. It has dumped two bottle in quick succession. Thanks.

[flyfisher]

you want the bolt forward mate, with it back you have let the air go straight through to the barrel as there is no pressure on the valve stem.

[Ca_Varminter]

There is a valve return spring the help close the Valve!
So when you screwing on a Full bottle. Have the Hammer cocked....
This is to make sure there is NO hammer pre-load pressure on the valve!!
The Bolt itself can be open or closed....

So if you have air rushing down the barrel...
It could be a Bent Valve-stem, blown O-ring on the Valve-body or maybe a little debris on the
Sealing surface of the valve-stem/valve-body.

So quick disassembly and inspection is needed..

Stuart

[angrybear]

Yep, from your other issue of the inconsistency I'd go straight for a look at the valve, they're almost certainly linked.
the valve is behind the middle cap at the front of the block, & unfortunately there are several different types as well as poor quality copies off 'the bay'
It's easy to swap them, but Bob would be the easiest place to get one.
Probably still worth popping it out to take a look as it might be just an O ring, plenty of info in the tech data area.
The O ring guide has pics of the valve body & shaft (top middle & middle middle) it might be that someone wrongly fitted 2 rings to the valve shaft which can 'lock it'

[Dr Fox]

There is a valve return spring the help close the Valve!
So when you screwing on a Full bottle. Have the Hammer cocked....
This is to make sure there is NO hammer pre-load pressure on the valve!!
The Bolt itself can be open or closed....

So if you have air rushing down the barrel...
It could be a Bent Valve-stem, blown O-ring on the Valve-body or maybe a little debris on the
Sealing surface of the valve-stem/valve-body.

So quick disassembly and inspection is needed..

Stuart

Thanks for that Stuart, its what I have been doing, but I did it again and it seemed to work, But, I feel sure there was the tinyest leak sound, and sure enough the bottle gas leaked away. So I will follow angrybears tip and pull the valve with that out we will see what will be revealed. cheers for now.

[Dr Fox]

Yep, from your other issue of the inconsistency I'd go straight for a look at the valve, they're almost certainly linked.
the valve is behind the middle cap at the front of the block, & unfortunately there are several different types as well as poor quality copies off 'the bay'
It's easy to swap them, but Bob would be the easiest place to get one.
Probably still worth popping it out to take a look as it might be just an O ring, plenty of info in the tech data area.
The O ring guide has pics of the valve body & shaft (top middle & middle middle) it might be that someone wrongly fitted 2 rings to the valve shaft which can 'lock it'

Sound advice, I will pull the valve and see what lurks within, even with it out I can post images for further advice. cheers for now.

[Dr Fox]

The story so far: Out with the valve components, and I might see exactly where my problem is (angrybear)!
Awaiting confirmation, until then just how do I get the valve head out? It wont shake out and I don't want to start poking anything in there.You cannot view this attachment.

[KevG]

if you mean valve body removal remove side location screw then drop the hammer out,you will need to remove trigger to do this.then probe out from the rear with something like a pencil or chop stick.dont use anything metal
kevG

[rgc_swanseaARC]

Do yourself a favour and ditch the bronze filter while you are there.
Put a spacer in the cap to delete it and do away with the issue of it breaking down and scattering glitter in your nice shiny new internal parts.

Mine has been running minus filter since the day I got it and no ill effects.

Kind Regards
Rhys

[angrybear]

Sometimes dry-firing will pop it out, I use a bit of 1.4mm stainless wire bent at a right angle (4mm) to fit down through the valve & pull it out.
Actually it's a fishing weight grip wire (Gemini double D fixed grip wire) see pic, sorry I forgot to mention the locating screw in the side of the block, cheers Kev.

The bit that seals is the wide rim of the stem on the face of the head/body facing you in the block,
make sure the body face is clean & un damaged,
Try just taking off that middle O ring on the shaft & reassembling, it should allow the stem to run much freer, although as it's apart you may as well get an O ring kit from the bay (item 251412173829 a good seller) & a tube of silicone O ring grease if you don't already have some (item 353352160132)

Once Bob's back on his feet I'd replace the whole valve with one of his, & dump the bronze filter, but for that you need a longer spring & a cap with a smaller hole to support it, (top right of O-ring pic) I did the change on mine last year instant extra 2ftlb.

[Dr Fox]

Rhys
Thank you well useful tip, and seconded by angry bear. Pieces of that in there are most unwelcome.

Kev G.
It is my intention to contact you in regards to this rifle. I will make that approach as soon as I get the present problems sorted. Thank you.

angry bear.
Good hints and tips, I will follow the replacement routes you have suggested. Things will have to go on hold until Dr Bob is Back in the swing of things, I will try fishing for that valve in the meantime. Thanks all.

[KevG]

just one more thing if you fire the valve out on a mk2 there is every chance you will jam the cocking bolt as hammer goes beyond design travel and jumps the trigger sear.if so just drop the trigger out to free things up what ever you do don't force the cocking handle.
kevG

[Ca_Varminter]

A great tool to push out the Valve assembly....
A Chopstick!!
I knew being Chinese would come in handy!!!!
        

Stuart

[Dr Fox]

kevG
Decided I am capable of following your suggestion of trigger off, hammer out.
Just so I am clear here:
1.The bolt is left in? In what position? Hammer uncocked (obvious)!
2. The cover over hammer! Is that an adjuster, or a captive cover only? I own a chronograph so I am not in serious trouble to reset.Thanks.

[KevG]

if you mean the hammer end plug it can be adjusted to fine tune power.
the bolt probe is best left in the forward locked down position
kevG