MFR barrel and shroud schematics/photos

[Trooper]

Would anyone have any photos or schematics for a factory standard FAC version (.20) MFR showing both barrel and shroud details, or perhaps photos?

I recently purchased mine from an elderly gentleman who had to sell it as it was too heavy for him and his wife to use anymore.  When it arrived I noticed it has a reasonably heavy metal shroud (1" diameter), which is completely open at the end, extending a couple of inches past the end of the barrel within. 

I'm thinking I could fit a thin wall aluminium shroud, to reduce the weight, and also the length as well to make it flush with the end of the barrel. 

Any drawings, schematics or photos would be greatly appreciated, to give me a heads up of how the shroud is mounted and what is inside. 

There is a grub screw on the top of the shroud, at the very rear just in front of the block, which seems to thread down into a bush mounted on the barrel.  I'm thinking that is likely how I'm going to get it started. 

Regards,

Trooper

[Squinty]

The end cap is missing, which probably doesn't help.
Not sure how Aussie law stands on shroud/silencing.

http://www.hurwitt.me.uk/airgun/Technical/mfr_silencer/silencing_the_theoben_mfr.htm

Usual method sub-12 is to make new supports and replace the steel with carbon tube.
28x25 ..1.5mm wall?

[Trooper]

The end cap is missing, which probably doesn't help.
Not sure how Aussie law stands on shroud/silencing.

http://www.hurwitt.me.uk/airgun/Technical/mfr_silencer/silencing_the_theoben_mfr.htm

Usual method sub-12 is to make new supports and replace the steel with carbon tube.
28x25 ..1.5mm wall?

Thanks Squinty.  No silencers are permitted in Oz, which is likely why the end cap is missing as I expect that all the internals were removed prior to the shipment heading off from UK in 2005.  So I won't be going down that route, however I hadn't thought about the carbon fibre.  Something that is light and will support the barrel is ideal, and I expect that the carbon fibre could be even better than aluminium. 

I'll do some research on finding some suitable size carbon fibre.  I'm thinking anything from around 3/4" to the standard 1" of the original metal shroud.  Smaller than 1" will also provide more clearance for the bottle.

[Squinty]

The end cap is missing, which probably doesn't help.
Not sure how Aussie law stands on shroud/silencing.

http://www.hurwitt.me.uk/airgun/Technical/mfr_silencer/silencing_the_theoben_mfr.htm

Usual method sub-12 is to make new supports and replace the steel with carbon tube.
28x25 ..1.5mm wall?

Thanks Squinty.  No silencers are permitted in Oz, which is likely why the end cap is missing as I expect that all the internals were removed prior to the shipment heading off from UK in 2005.  So I won't be going down that route, however I hadn't thought about the carbon fibre.  Something that is light and will support the barrel is ideal, and I expect that the carbon fibre could be even better than aluminium. 

I'll do some research on finding some suitable size carbon fibre.  I'm thinking anything from around 3/4" to the standard 1" of the original metal shroud.  Smaller than 1" will also provide more clearance for the bottle.

you could go down to 5/8" i/d providing you have a way to hold the tube on.
Does it still have the 'skinny' barrel or perhaps the full 5/8"-15.85mm o/d?

[Trooper]

I'm not sure what the barrel size is inside at this stage.  That's one of the reasons I thought I'd ask about the schematic or photos, just to get a handle on where to start pulling it down, although I suspect that the exercise will start with that drub screw on the top of the shroud, at the rear.

[angrybear]

Hope this helps sorry about the pic quality, I see squinty has already passed on the hurwitt link.
Skinny barrel is 12mm, but std 16mm to fit in the block.
The block end shroud support can be either tapered like this or straight side like yours on later models.

 

[angrybear]

There is also a factory shroud extension 135mm just hollow space, but the bore hole does act like a baffle & they help,
problem is they're rare as rocking horse poo, I've just made a mod for mine, thread is 24mm x 1mm pitch.
If even the shroud falls foul of your gun law, you might be better off with a std 16mm barrel, as the open shroud can act like a megaphone down range.
  

[Trooper]

Thanks Gents.  Greatly appreciated. 

Kind regards,

Trooper

[Trooper]

So, I've removed that grub screw which does indeed secure the shroud and rear shroud bush onto the 15.66mm barrel.  However the rear shroud bush is bonded to the barrel so I'm guessing that the way to remove the shroud is to actually remove the barrel from the block and then slide the entire shroud rearwards over the breach port and off. 

So when reassembling, is there anything 'tricky' to know about setting the barrel in position, or is it simply a matter of reinserting the barrel as far back as it will go and tighten.  I did note what I believe to be a barrel locating grub screw under the front scope ring. 

I also assume that this screw, with the arrow, is the actual barrel clamp. 

Is there anything else I should know before getting into it?

[Squinty]

barrel removal

https://rapidforum.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=161.0

bolt/probe adjustment

set the barrel flush with the block and adjust the probe

https://rapidforum.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=151.0

[Trooper]

Thanks Mate.  The more I see of this MFR, the more I like it.

[angrybear]

If not already done so, the shroud should unscrew from the bush, it can however take both hands, full 10 white knuckles to move it 
If you can remove it you'll be able to see what set up you have for shroud support at the muzzle, because the bush will not pass the std support.

[Trooper]

If not already done so, the shroud should unscrew from the bush, it can however take both hands, full 10 white knuckles to move it 
If you can remove it you'll be able to see what set up you have for shroud support at the muzzle, because the bush will not pass the std support.

Thanks Mate, I noted that the shroud, with the attached bush, wouldn't pass over the muzzle support, which is why I was thinking I'd have to remove the barrel first and then slide the shroud and attached bush/mount rearwards over the breach port end.  I wasn't sure if the rear shroud bush/mount was threaded or soldered etc.

[angrybear]

You should end up with something similar to this, bush, muzzle support, end cap & tube which is threaded both ends.

[Kernal]

Hey guys some really and i mean really nice photo`s being uploaded lately in really good detail.

Very impressing guys, loving it. Just click on the thumbnail and its in very great detail.