Newbie - regulator service

[KevG]

you can either get oring or if you have access to a lathe you can take a couple of millimetres of the brass collar on the threaded side.i make regs which are very good but the one you have will be fine once sorted.you need between 0.5 and 1mm travel on core.to check this you need nut and belleville washers removed.
KevG

[Akroyd]

Thanks KevG.

No lathe, so will explore the O ring option.  Fortunately I measured the gap between the collar and thread before I dismantled the reg.  So, I may just leave as is and periodically check for movement.

I have now removed the valve and stem.  Had trouble getting the valve out as one of the two O rings on the valve body had split (you were right), causing the valve to stick.  Repeated cocking and firing could not get the valve to budge.  Concerned about damaging the valve, I used a paper clip with a hooked end to carefully hook the valve and pull it out of the chamber. Worked very well.

On to my next question.  I have read that the stem should have just one O ring, on the groove nearest the spring, with the other groove left empy.  My stem has the two grooves, but the O ring is on the groove furthest away from the spring (see pic). 

Should I replace the O ring as currently located (away from spring), or on the other groove (nearest spring), or put O rings on both grooves?

Will also replace the other O rings - three on the valve and one on the plug.  Starting to get through all those O rings in the service kit...

Many thanks for all your help with this. 

Steve

[KevG]

your stem oring is in the correct groove.should be in rear.only one oring is needed.
KevG

[Akroyd]

Thanks again KevG.

Done and reassembled.  I now have air leaking into the barrel - a lot.  Have taken out the valve and stem, and put back again, but no joy.  There may be minor traces of light oil in the two chambers (reg / valve) from when I was cleaning them - would that be enough to cause significant air loss? 

Any suggestions welcome.  Will have a other look tomorrow.

Steve
   

[Ca_Varminter]

If you have a leak of air down the barrel..
There are 2 area you need to check on the Black Valve-Body.


One is the Face of the Valve-Body. Make sure there are no scratches or gouges here.
If so you can chuck it up in a drill, use some fine sand paper to smooth it out.
Just maintain that Angle.

So if you changed both O-rings.. this shouldn't be a problem.
Next check the O-ring seating area in the Receiver of your Rapid.
Make sure there are no scratches or dried O-ring lube here..
Give this area a good cleaning!!!

Btw... don't forget to give those O-rings a thin film of Molykote 33... helps the O-rings seat!!

Good Luck
Stuart

[Akroyd]

Stuart,

Many thanks - will check these points tomorrow.  BTW, is that metal cap part of your valve stem?  Looks very different to the one in my Rapid.

Steve   

[Ca_Varminter]

Yes it is....
Well I am one of "those" rapid owners!
I make some of my parts.
That is one of my Custom Titanium Tapered valves....


Stuart

[Kernal]

If there`s one thing about Stuart i know..And that`s he just loves Titanium

Plus he seem`s to know his stuff as well very clear guy our Stuart is 

[Ca_Varminter]

If there`s one thing about Stuart i know..And that`s he just loves Titanium

Plus he seem`s to know his stuff as well very clear guy our Stuart is 

Well that One can be debated!!
Here is a result of one of my early testing of my valve and valve-body design....

I forgot to lower my hammer pre-load!!!!
So I pushed a Bis-Mag over 1200 fps, through 1400 pages...
Well I Killed a trade catalog!!!
Lucky I always used a 1/4" metal splash plate as a backstop!!


Stuart

[Kernal]

Good god i remember back in the old days my m8 used to use a catalogue to test the power of his sharp innova .22,
Tbh i wasn't so sure if the catalogue was being used for testing the power output of his gun or for something else as he was single 

[Akroyd]

Stuart,

Very impressive stuff. 

Hopefully will make progress on sorting the air leak tomorrow. Otherwise I may have to give in, and send the block to a specialist.

Take care, Steve     

[Akroyd]

Sadly - no joy.  Maybe I need a new valve and stem, but difficult to know for sure.

Think I need to send the block to someone that can look at it properly, and maybe fit upgraded internals.  Any suggestions very welcome.  KevG - is this something you might be willing to do?   

Steve