Seems a stuck delivery valve!

[rgc_swanseaARC]

kevG
Decided I am capable of following your suggestion of trigger off, hammer out.
Just so I am clear here:
1.The bolt is left in? In what position? Hammer uncocked (obvious)!
2. The cover over hammer! Is that an adjuster, or a captive cover only? I own a chronograph so I am not in serious trouble to reset.Thanks.

If you are struggling i am in Llanelli, i can help you out if you need.

Kind Regards,
Rhys

[Dr Fox]

Rhys
Thank you thats an offer I will accept if things start go go off. I am in Goodwick, so just down the road from you. Cheers Denis.

[Dr Fox]

Looking closely at the valve stem, there is a notch in the stem end. Q. Is this a design feature or a fault?

[KevG]

it's just how it's made.should only realy have one oring at the rear though
kevG

[angrybear]

Not a 'design feature' but should make no odds, that's just the face the hammer pip strikes, to knock the valve open,
the other end & the waist are the sealing & flowing areas.

The valve spring pushes the underside face of the stem rim against the valve body to form a seal,
on firing the hammer pip strikes the end of the stem pushing it forward, opening the valve, the air then flows past the waist out of the top of the valve body through the barrel port in to the bore & propels the pellet down the barrel, the spring meanwhile, rebounds pushing the stem back & again seals the valve closed.
When you remove that bronze filter it both, allows quicker airflow through the valve, & the volume of the metal is removed increasing the volume of air in the block pre-chamber.

[Dr Fox]

Got thanks.
I followed KevG's advice and took off the trigger, and removed bolt. I know you suggested a hook pull out, but to be honest not even knowing what the item looked like, that to me was a risk. I have sent (or thought I had) an image of the component parts including the valve, find the site difficult to work with I am not sure He will receive the info.
In basic terms I am never comfortable with chopped unfinished springs, and there are two here. Also everything fitted dry as a bone. So if I repost all here perhaps kevG will see it. And yes the filter will go and I will fit a spacer to compensate for the spring fit.

[angrybear]

That looks like a sub 12 long pip on the hammer rather than a short FAC one as well,
Lots of room for Kev to work his magic.
I always run with a dry lubed hammer, wet lube just attracts cr*p, but that's just dry.

[Squinty]

its a standard mk2 fac pip. 9mm-ish

[KevG]

you don't just fit a spacer to make up for filter replacement, it's a disc with a tit on so the stem return spring as something to sit on and guide it true.you don't use the spring that you have now but a longer one,also you carnt use that valve body with out a filter.so to do it right you use a new valve and stem with return spring and disc guide.
kevG

[Dr Fox]

Thank you. So, new valve, new spring, new stem, disc guide, and include a new end cap?.
Is DR Bob the suppliers of these, as e know he is unavailable at the moment.
Another point what about the two hammer springs coil cut and unfinished. Can I replace these?

[Dr Fox]

SpringsYou cannot view this attachment.

[KevG]

you should not need  double hammer spring even for fac,you can just heat the open coil end and shape to flat.what power is it doing.
kevG

[Dr Fox]

This is exactly why I am seeking your expertise, previous history dubious, its even in a stock that its not fitted for!!
Chrono on one of the times I have had it shooting:
18.13 grn 925fps. 34.5ft lbs.
21.1 grn 880fps. 36.29ft lbs.
25.38grn 809fps. 36.89ft lbs.
Thank you. Denis.
PS. The damn thing is addictive, I want it the best it can be.