Hi all,
My rapid mk2 fac is leaking. I filled the rifle from empty (I had drained air as I had a leak from qf) but the bolt was forward and locked down when filling. I now have air leaking down barrel with bolt forward and locked down. When bolt is in rear position I have leaking air through transfer port.
I have ordered a new valve assembly (including stem) from Dr Bob as I believe this is where the issue is?
My question being, what is the best way to get the valve body out? Is it just a case of removing the cap, removing the valve body retaining grub on the side of the block and then dry firing to pop the body out? Or is there a better way to do this?
I have looked through technical posts but cannot find a definitive answer.
Thanks in advance,
Chris
Yep, that's the usual method.
If the valve sticks part way because of the short hammer pip, then its hammer out and push the valve with a 6mm dowel.
Quote from: Squinty on December 07, 2023, 10:17:11 AMYep, that's the usual method.
If the valve sticks part way because of the short hammer pip, then its hammer out and push the valve with a 6mm dowel.
Ok, is there are specific way to remove hammer if required. Watched a you tube vid that says you need to pull trigger sear down to disengage it from hammer in order to slide it out?
depends on trigger Anschutz, sporter, mk3/4.
Annie process is critical and repair is expensive if done wrong,
sporter...you know more than me then, would recommend Jimmy Dee strip down instructions
https://www.jimmiedeesairguns.com/guides/service-guides/theoben-rapid-mkii-service-guide/a-service-guide-for-the-theoben-rapid-mkii/
mk3-4 pinned cassette- easy.
I have a little wire tool to pull the valve body out, if it doesn't come out with a dry fire.
It's actually just a grip wire from my beach fishing weight kit, just very hard stainless wire with a bend small enough to clear the valve bore but strong enough not to bend when pulled with pliers, remove the valve stem, put the wire up through, hook the back of the valve & pull it out.
Far easier than taking the hammer out.
Cheers guys, I've got some stainless welding wire that should do just the trick if necessary.
Thanks again,
Chris
Chris, be careful not to score up the internal bore or of your delrin valve etc remember there's a small oring on the stem that needs free movement or it might stick open emptying your bottle.
Quote from: Millingman on December 07, 2023, 09:26:45 PMChris, be careful not to score up the internal bore or of your delrin valve etc remember there's a small oring on the stem that needs free movement or it might stick open emptying your bottle.
Thanks for the tip. I'll be careful, will wrap some insulation tape over the bend. I have a replacement valve and stem on its way as I figured I'd rather have them and not need them than the other way round so if it does go tits up at least I've got a replacement at hand.
Funny I thing is I gave it a blast of air earlier to try and seat the valve and she leaked a bit and then the valve seated. I fired her off a few times, initially having small audible leaks between cocking it and then it stopped leaking?? I'm thinking dry o-rings? If it behaves I'll hold off delving into it, if not along with the new bits and seals and all the brilliant advice on here I'll get it sorted.
Thanks again all👍
If you don't have an Anti-Tamper plate.....
Just pull the hammer spring assembly..(Drop trigger first)
Then use a wooden dowel to push the valve/valve-body out.
Being Chinese.... Chopstick works perfectly!!!!!
8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
Stuart
Looks good guys👍 removed valve housing (didn't come out by dry firing so pulled it out carefully with some bent wire as suggested) and found a really dry and split o-ring on the rear stem of it. I decided to change the body and stem for a new one from Dr Bob anyway. Filled to 210 yesterday afternoon, checked this morning......210bar :)
Currently out with my Brocock on the feral pigeons but looking forward to giving the hik alpex/rapid combo an outing on the rats tonight👌
Thankyou all for your guidance/advice. Big help. Cheers, Chris