Hoping to clear up a mystery - discovered x2 springs ( one fitted inside another ) in my mk2 hammer spring assembly.
1. wtf ?
2. best way to set this up in future ?
FAC Rapid Mk2 currently running at 30.5 Ft/Lbs with 18.13gr JSB Jumbo Heavy - would love power to stay around 32/33 ft/lb with this pellet. Consistency / accuracy paramount.
Thanks in advance,
Charlie.
IMG_4657 02.jpg
IMG_4662 02.jpg
I think it was a phase Theoben went through on FAC rifles , totally unnecessary and will run more consistently with a good single spring . Always singles in any of my fac rapids
A1
(https://photos.imageevent.com/scl_electronics/gun/ultimaterapid/websize/20201012_134920.jpg)
That is what is used in the export/FAC version of the Rapids...
Also they used them in .177 12fpe Rapids..
I used this setup in my Titanium Rapid1!!
I have polished the springs, makes for a smooth cocking cycle..
But I know KevG doesn't care for them... a good single spring should good for up to 40 fpe...
Just depends on the setup...
Good Luck
Stuart
That's the same set up as mine. It's running at around 32ft/lb with 18.13gr JSB Jumbo Heavy
Interersting, thanks. Will replace with a single spring and keep it simple.
Am sure everyone has their preferences and specific requirements but any tips to ensure smooth and efficient firing cycle would be appreciated.
In the process of stripping and cleaning ( rifle acquired a year ago in ok condition but clean needed ).
Am open to upgrading selected parts if necessary.
Dr Fox.
Mine came with the same set up, but with one difference. The inner spring was allowed to ride down onto the inertia weight the buffer spacer was omitted. It was not to my mind the best way to go, so I found Kev G who did the single spring method. Much cleaner fit, easier tune, with just one spring to cut and tailor! While I was about this I got Kev G to send me all his innards, now tuned with 21.5 grain pellets at 40 ft lbs.
(I know you inherited this set up.)The main spring you show, should have been finished into the flat coil shape shown on the other 3 ends. That pointed spring end, besides scoring components, is not a bearing surface for compression.
The pointed spring end had me baffled for that very reason.
Quote from: Chips on September 05, 2023, 07:33:06 PMThe pointed spring end had me baffled for that very reason.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/scl_electronics/gun/air/websize/conical-spring.jpg)
This is an Anti-Rattle spring!!
I use a Conical Spring for the Inertia weight/DoubleTap setups..
If you have a short protrusion of the Pip in the Hammer.
The spring tends to pounds itself into DUST!!
The Conical spring will collapse upon itself... with the risk of crushing..
Just an added safeguard to my HP Rapids..
Stuart
Quote from: Ca_Varminter on September 06, 2023, 01:11:25 AMQuote from: Chips on September 05, 2023, 07:33:06 PMThe pointed spring end had me baffled for that very reason.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/scl_electronics/gun/air/websize/conical-spring.jpg)
This is an Anti-Rattle spring!!
I use a Conical Spring for the Inertia weight/DoubleTap setups..
If you have a short protrusion of the Pip in the Hammer.
The spring tends to pounds itself into DUST!!
The Conical spring will collapse upon itself... with the risk of crushing..
Just an added safeguard to my HP Rapids..
Stuart
Good to know - my hammer pip is indeed the short variety. Am thinking this spring has less friction against inside of hammer ? Can you point me in the direction of a conical inertia spring ?
Charlie.
stuart mean the pip protrusion inside the hammer,it would not be the pip its self at fault some hammers were not bored out deep enough,easy fix is to have a pip made to give you more thread length,standard thread length is 14mm.
kevG
Ok understood - my hammer has very little pip protrusion inside - about 3mm - no thread so poss a different design altogether ?
Have no reason to change this hammer - unless there's worthwhile room for improvement by doing so. Am going for the simplest route here !
Any thoughts ?
no that will be threaded if you heated the pip up it would screw out,if its extended around 3mm into hammer chamber that's fine
kevG
Quote from: KevG on September 07, 2023, 01:58:56 PMno that will be threaded if you heated the pip up it would screw out,if its extended around 3mm into hammer chamber that's fine
kevG
Ok interesting - thanks Kev. So would you recommend I use a conical spring as Stuart suggests ? or just replace the old one - am suddenly in a world of springs here - lots of options !
Cheers,
C.
I've never had a problem with the standard springs and it's not very often I've seen smashed one only those with the dodgy hammers I mentioned.though having said that the springs Stuart is using look a great Idea
kevG
The source for all my spring needs is Century springs....
The don't sell direct anymore...
So I go through MWCompnents..
here is a link to the Conical spring page
https://www.mwcomponents.com/century-spring/shop/tapered-springs
But I am sure you must be able to source them on your side of the Pond!!!
Stuart
Quote from: Ca_Varminter on September 08, 2023, 05:48:04 PMThe source for all my spring needs is Century springs....
The don't sell direct anymore...
So I go through MWCompnents..
here is a link to the Conical spring page
https://www.mwcomponents.com/century-spring/shop/tapered-springs
But I am sure you must be able to source them on your side of the Pond!!!
Stuart
I looked for conical springs a while back after seeing one of your pictures, one of the UK online suppliers keeps stock items.
However even adding 10 to a larger order (hammer/valve/probe) the cost is pennies under £4 each... for a trial.
Quote from: Ca_Varminter on September 08, 2023, 05:48:04 PMThe source for all my spring needs is Century springs....
The don't sell direct anymore...
So I go through MWCompnents..
here is a link to the Conical spring page
https://www.mwcomponents.com/century-spring/shop/tapered-springs
But I am sure you must be able to source them on your side of the Pond!!!
Stuart
Thanks Stuart -